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FAST FASHION AND ENVIRONMENTAL COMPLIANCE IN INDIA: LEGAL RESPONSIBILITIES UNDER POLLUTION CONTROL LAWS

The clothes we buy today are no longer meant to last for years. Fashion brands introduce new designs every few weeks, prices are kept low, and trends change almost overnight. This system

INTRODUCTION

The clothes we buy today are no longer meant to last for years. Fashion brands introduce new designs every few weeks, prices are kept low, and trends change almost overnight. This system of producing and selling clothes to meet consumer demand is commonly known as fast fashion. While it has made fashion more accessible, it has also increased the scale at which clothing is manufactured and discarded.

Behind the appealing prices and rapid trends lies a production process that involves extensive use of water, chemicals, energy, and packaging materials. Textile dyeing, washing, and finishing units often generate wastewater and industrial waste, which brings such activities within the scope of environmental regulation. These activities raise important questions about whether existing pollution control laws are being effectively followed and enforced.

This article examines how Indian environmental laws regulate the fast fashion industry and analyses the legal responsibilities imposed on manufacturers under pollution control legislation. The blog aims to study whether the current legal framework is sufficient to address the environmental challenges posed by fast fashion.

UNDERSTANDING FAST FASHION AND ITS ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT

Fast fashion is a business model where clothes are produced quickly and in large numbers to match changing trends.[1] Brands release new collections frequently, which leads to continuous manufacturing and high production volume.

From an environmental point of view, this model raises the following concerns:

  • Water pollution

Textile units use large amounts of water for dyeing, washing, and finishing clothes. These processes produce wastewater that often contain dyes and other substances. If this wastewater is not properly treated, it can pollute rivers and other water sources.

  • Chemical discharge

Chemicals are commonly used to colour, treat, and finish fabrics. During production, these chemicals may be released into water or air, creating environmental risks and bringing such units under pollution control laws.

  • Solid and plastic waste

Fast fashion generates waste in the form of leftover fabric, rejected garments, and packaging materials such as plastic covers and tags. Since clothes are often used for a short period, disposal of garments also increases, adding to waste management concerns.[2]

ENVIRONMENTAL LAWS APPLICABLE TO THE FASHION INDUSTRY IN INDIA

There is no separate law in India that deals with the fashion industry. Instead, textile and garment units are regulated under general environmental and pollution control laws. Since clothing manufacturing involves water use, chemicals, and emissions, these laws become applicable to the fashion industry as well.

Environment (Protection) Act, 1986

The Environment (Protection) Act, 1986 is a broad law that gives powers to the Central Government to protect the environment.[3] Under this Act, the government can set environmental Standard and issue directions to industries.[4]

Textile and garment units fall under this Act because their activities can affect air, water, and land. The Act allows authorities to regulate such units, check whether they are following environmental rules, and take action if violations are found.

In simple terms, this Act acts as an umbrella law that gives the government overall control to deal with environmental harm caused by industries, including those involved in fast fashion.

Water (Prevention and Control of Pollution) Act, 1974

The Water Act deals specifically with water pollution.[5] It is very important for the fashion industry because textile manufacturing uses water at several stages, especially during dyeing and washing.

Under this Act, factories are not allowed to discharge wastewater into rivers, lakes, or drains without permission. They must take prior consent from the State Pollution Control Board before starting their operations.[6] The Board also lays down conditions to ensure that the wastewater is treated properly before it is released.

If a textile unit discharges untreated or harmful effluents, it can be held responsible under this Act.

Air (Prevention and Control of Pollution) Act, 1981

The Air Act focuses on controlling air pollution caused by industrial activities.[7] In garment and textile units, air pollution can arise from the use of boilers, generators, and other machinery.

Under this Act, manufacturing units are required to follow emission standards and obtain necessary approvals from pollution control authorities. These authorities have the power to inspect units and take action if the prescribed limits are not followed.

This Act ensures that industrial growth, including in the fashion sector, does not take place at the cost of air quality.

WASTE MANAGEMENT AND COMPLIANCE OBLIGATION

Waste management is a major legal issue in the fast fashion industry because large amounts of waste are created during production and packaging. Indian environmental laws address these issues by placing specific duties on manufacturers and brand owners. [8]

Solid Waste Management Rules, 2016

These Rules deal with the handling of waste produced by industries. In textile and garment units, solid waste is mainly generated during cutting, stitching, and finishing processes.

These Rules make it clear that manufacturers are responsible for the waste they generate. They cannot throw it away anywhere they want and ignore it. The waste has to be collected and disposed of in the manner required under the Rules.[9]            

If a textile unit does not follow these requirements, authorities can take action against it. This makes waste handling a legal responsibility for fast fashion manufacturers.[10]      

Plastic Waste Management Rules, 2016

Plastic is widely used by fast fashion brands, mainly for packaging and delivery. Covers, tags, and wrappers made of Plastic are commonly used to store and transport clothes.

Under the Plastic Waste Management Rules, 2016, manufacturers and brand owners are responsible for the plastic they use. This is called Extended Producer Responsibility or EPR. It means they are responsible for the plastic even after the cloths are sold.[11]

Brands need to take care of the plastic waste properly. They can do this by collecting it or making sure it is disposed of properly. If a brand does not follow these Rules, authorities can take action against it.[12]

ENFORCEMENT CHALLENGES AND COMPLIANCE GAPS

Even though there are laws and rules to control pollution in the fashion industry, following them in real life is not always easy. Some of the main challenges are:

  • Monitoring all units effectively is a challenge. Many textile factories operate on a small scale or informally. Such units often do not follow the rules, and it becomes difficult for authorities to keep track of them.
  • Pollution control boards often do not have enough staff or resources to inspect all factories regularly. This means some violations can go unnoticed.
  • Large brands are legally responsible for pollution and waste, but most of the actual manufacturing is done by third-party suppliers. This makes it difficult to ensure that environmental rules are followed at every stages.
  • Authorities need time, money, and staff to manage inspections and enforcement, but these resources are often limited. [13]

These challenges do not mean that the laws are weak. They highlight areas where enforcement can improve and where brands and authorities need to work together to make sure environmental regulations are followed in practice.

RECOMMENDATIONS

Some basic steps can help improve how environmental laws are followed in the fast fashion industry.

  • Pollution Control Boards need to be more careful while enforcing the rules.
  • Regular checks are important to know whether factories are actually following the law.
  • Brands also need to take responsibility for how their clothes are made by other units.
  • When the rules are clear and practical, it becomes easier to follow them.

CONCLUSION

Fast fashion has made clothes cheaper and easily available, but it has also created serious environmental problems. In India, there are laws that apply to the fashion industry and place duties on manufacturers and brands. These laws cover pollution, waste, and environmental protection.

The main issue is not the absence of laws, but how they are followed in practice. Gaps in enforcement and compliance reduce their impact. If existing rules are followed properly and brands take more responsibility, many of these problems can be reduced. With proper application of environmental laws, the fashion industry can reduce its harmful impact on the environment.

Author(s) Name: Nikita Borah (National Law University and Judicial Academy, Assam)

References:

[1] Luz Claudio, ‘Waste Couture: Environmental Impact of the Clothing Industry’ (2007) 115(9) Environmental Health Perspectives A449

[2] Shakthi Bharathee S and Arun D Raj, ‘Addressing Environmental Challenges of Fast Fashion Through Legal and Sustainable Practices’ (2025) 7 Indian Journal of Law and Legal Research 1002 <https://www.ijllr.com/post/addressing-environmental-challenges-of-fast-fashion-through-legal-and-sustainable-practices> accessed 12 March 2026

[3] Environment (Protection) Act 1986

[4] Environment (Protection) Act 1986, ss 3 & 5

[5] Water (Prevention and Control of Pollution) Act 1974

[6] Water (Prevention and Control of Pollution) Act 1974, ss 25 &26

[7] Air (Prevention and Control of Pollution) Act, 1981

[8] Centre for Science and Environment, Waste Management Rules, Compliances and Associated Methodologies (Centre for Science and Environment 2018)  <https://cdn.cseindia.org/attachments/0.45265500_1526032820_Waste-management-rules-and-compliances.pdf>  accessed 17 January 2026

[9] Solid Waste Management Rules 2016, SO 1357(E)

[10] Solid Waste Management Rules 2016, rr 4, 9, 22

[11] Plastic Waste Management Rules 2016, GSR 320(E)

[12] Plastic Waste Management (Amendment) Rules 2022, GSR 133(E)

[13] Arunraaj Natarajan and Priyadarshini Mounaguruswamy, ‘Sustainable Fashion in India: Navigating Challenges, Unveiling Solutions, and Unlocking Opportunities for Entrepreneurs’ (2025) 12(1) Journal of Emerging Technologies and Innovative Research a15 <https://www.jetir.org/papers/JETIR2501004.pdf> accessed 12 March 2026.